There are many hedge species suitable for boundary hedging. The photo shows a Leylandii hedge in the background with an English Yew hedge in front. Many other hedge species are suitable for boundary hedges for example Laurel, Privet, Beech, Hornbeam and Thuja. All of these hedges are either leaf retaining or evergreen therefore providing year round privacy.

SECURITY HEDGES
Security hedges will often perform similar functions as boundary hedging but with a greater priority placed in keeping out intruders.While many species will provide security, hedging plants with thorns will always be the most effective deterrent. While they are undoubtedly more hostile many of these hedge plants may also provide a beautiful living tapestry of colour for much of the year.

Faster growing evergreen security hedging plants include Pyracantha (in the photo) together with Berberis Darwinii and Berberis Stenophylla, Hollies will also make an excellent prickly hedge albeit more slowly. Suitable deciduous hedging species include Quickthorn, Blackthorn and most Roses. A mixture of plants can be equally effective, Mixed Native hedges are excellent for security as are simpler mixes such as Hornbeam and Quickthorn which combined are prickly and leaf retaining for winter.

SCREENING HEDGES
There are many situations where a screening hedge would be desirable, ugly or out of keeping buildings may spoil the view, overlooking windows may compromise privacy or a busy road may require evergreen hedging not just to improve the view but to filter noise and pollution. Visual screening hedges should give good coverage all year and may be trimmed in a way that preserves the desirable part of a view. High level screening can be achieved with ‘monster’ hedges but the maintenance is likely to be difficult and expensive. If space allows it is better to keep the hedge at a manageable size and plant a belt of trees and/or large shrubs away from the hedge to achieve high level screening. Hedges to screen noise and pollution should be deep and dense, the best species are Leylandii or the broad leaved Cherry Laurel hedge ideally planted in a double or triple row if space allows.

Measuring
When measuring the quantity of artificial grass required it is essential to incorporate an overlap of 100mm over each edge for coverage of the timber perimeter.

Survey
Undertake a ground survey to ascertain whether or not the terrain is subject to poor drainage, thereby retaining surface water. In such cases, in order to ensure a satisfactory base for EverLawn® artificial grass, measures should be taken to install appropriate and adequate below surface, drainage. We would advise the crushed aggregate followed by a sand infill method as in step 4.

Installation Guide
Installing artificial grass can be carried out by most able bodied DIY enthusiast; however, consideration should be given to the weight of some of the materials required. Either remove the existing turf manually or hire a turf cutter to save time and labour.

Crushed aggregate followed by sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 3inches or 90mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm. Then using 4inch x 1inch or 100mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting)  screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If artificial grass meets a concrete path or wall then position the 4 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

Sand infill method
Use treated timber stakes or treated tile batten, purchased from your local builder’s merchants to hammer into the ground. Each stake should protrude from the ground approximately 1 inch and a half inches or 45mm and at a distance no greater than 20inches or 500mm. Then using 2inch x 1inch or 50mm x 20mm treated timber, (always pilot hole the timbers to prevent splitting) screw to the outer edge of the stakes leaving the stakes on the inside of the perimeter. If the turf meets a concrete path or wall then position the 2 x 1 flush with the surface height and by using 10mm temporary timber fillets pack the timber away to enable the artificial grass to tuck between the timber and adjoining material at a later stage. Then position the stakes against the inner perimeter timber edging and hammer in to the ground ensuring the stakes are slightly lower than the timber edging. After creating a pilot hole screw the two timbers together.

With heavy clay soils we recommended laying a crushed stone surface of 3inches or 70mm. This isn’t necessary for the majority of lawns and only required if the ground holds water for a long period of time after rain. If your lawn floods then you do need to install adequate drainage at this stage. Compact the crushed stone using a wacker plate which can be hired from your local hire shop. Ensure the perimeters are compacted and below the timber edging by 1inch or 25mm.

Lay in the desired direction and overlap the timber perimeter with artificial grass by 4inches. Then tuck down into the ground and fix to the timber with 1inch galvanized nails. Then rake the soil to within 1ich of the surface of the artificial grass. If the artificial turf meets a path or wall and the instructions in section 2 have been completed then the artificial grass can be wedged between.

On large areas a join may be required. First lay each piece of artificial grass together ensuring the pile of each piece falls in the same direction and has an overhang of 4 inches around the perimeter. At this stage it is important to use a sharp Stanley Knife. Peel back the two grass joins. Very carefully cut the underside of the carpet as close to the stitch line as possible on each carpet.

The accuracy of this will determine how visible the join is after completion. Then pull both pieces of artificial grass together ensuring the gab between the stitching is no greater than 2mm. Then peel back the two pieces and anchor ready to glue. Position the tape onto the weed membrane and fix through both materials into the sub base with galvanized nails to prevent the tape moving. Carefully but liberally pour the adhesive to cover the tape with a glue depth of approximately 3mm. Once all the glue has reached a whitish colour it is then time to begin fixing the grass edges. Carefully lay the edges of in their final position ensuring each piece marries up and has no overlap.

As you are doing this, with your fingers mix the grass fibers together to conceal the join. Once the whole length is in place and you are happy with the appearance it is necessary to walk along the join several times thus activating the glue and bonding the grass to the tape. Small amounts of adhesive can be removed from the grass fibers using White Spirit and a small off cut of the turf. Small amounts of cured glue can usually be removed quite easily however to avoid the possibility of damage precautions should be taken to avoid contact at all times.

1 small onion
1 stick celery
courgettes (1 large or 2 medium or 4 normal) – cut into quarters length ways then into cubes
1/2 clove of garlic
a sprinkle of fresh or dried red chili
a sprinkle of dried italian herbs
veg or chicken stock
salt and pepper

Saute off the courgettes in a bit of olive oil until slightly tender. Remove from the pan and add the onions and celery. Cook until soft and sweet.
Add the garlic, chili, herbs and all but a handful of the courgettes (these will go into the soup after blending for texture). Stir then add the stock so only just covers the courgettes.
Simmer for 10 minutes.
Blitz in a liquidiser or with a hand blender and then add the remaining courgettes, add salt to pepper to taste and serve. A spinkle of chopped fresh parsley or basil would be nice.

Into a bowl, grate 3 average sized carrots and finely slice 1 on the diagonal to give a different texture.

Add 1/2 tsp of ras el hanout (the Seasoned Pioneer one is the best – the pieces of rose petals show up in the carrot), salt, 1/2 tsp sugar and juice of half a lemon (this is to taste though and dependent on the size of the lemon so more may be required)

When having a garden office constructed in a garden there is no disruption to the home and no need to move house. Designed and built to last a lifetime using housing quality standards and regulations, garden rooms and offices are double-insulated and a solid investment for the future.

Garden office rooms, are designed for three purposes: -
To keep you, your paperwork, books and office equipment dry and condensation free.
To be used and enjoyed all year round.
To give your house back to your family, so that they can make lots of noise whilst you are working.

Cougettes fitters…..courgette soup…..courgette pasta…..griddled curgettes…..stuffed courgettes